Hifumi Cafe & Bookstore: A Century-Old Japanese Wooden House Cafe in Kaohsiung's Hamasen

In Kaohsiung City's Gushan District, near the historically rich Hamasen area, lies an old building steeped in a century of history: "Hifumi Cafe & Bookstore" (書店喫茶 一二三亭). It is not merely a multi-functional cafe but a living history museum, allowing every visitor to travel through time and experience the romance and elegance of the Japanese colonial period.

The history of Hifumi-tei dates back to the Taisho era of Japanese rule, when the area around Kaohsiung Port (formerly Takao Port) was the most prosperous district. Hifumi-tei was originally constructed in a traditional Japanese architectural style as a high-end Ryotei (restaurant) or inn, providing dining and Geisha performances, catering specifically to Japanese officials, merchants, and the wealthy class traveling through the port. The name "Hifumi-tei" (一二三亭) carries a strong Japanese flair, bearing witness to Hamasen's glorious years as the starting point for Kaohsiung's modernization. After the Ryotei closed, it became "Minato Ryokan" in 1942. It survived Allied bombing during WWII, and after the war, it served variously as a shipping company, warehouse, teahouse, private residence, and government dormitory. In 2012, it faced an imminent crisis of mandatory demolition by the city government to make way for a parking lot. Fortunately, efforts by the Takao Historical Rebirth Association and local residents secured its preservation. Since 2013, the current management team has taken over, reopening it as "Hifumi Cafe & Bookstore," combining an independent bookstore with a tea/cafe space. They also regularly host local history lectures and used book markets, skillfully blending the aroma of books and tea, making it a crucial representation of Kaohsiung's cultural landscape.

The building is a two-story old house, a mixture of Japanese colonial and post-war styles. The first floor currently houses the "Takao Harbor Cultural and Artistic Warehouse," and the second floor is the cafe and bookstore space. Visitors must ascend the terrazzo staircase, entering through the Noren (traditional Japanese curtain) on the ground floor—a feeling akin to stepping back into the Showa era. The architecture employs the traditional "Machiya" style, featuring high-ceilings over two floors, sliding doors, a tatami area, and historic wooden flooring. The interior design skillfully retains the original partitioning and window frames, paired with dim lighting, creating a warm, tranquil atmosphere. Sitting by the window, you can gaze upon the surrounding historic streetscape and feel the slow passage of time in the Kaohsiung harbor area.

The old house retains a large amount of its original structure and details, including wooden windows, wooden floors, sliding doors, a Japanese layout, and terrazzo stairs. Paired with nostalgic furniture and vintage objects, it cultivates a quiet, dimly lit Showa-era ambiance. The interior features deliberately high ceilings, with exposed wooden beams and trusses showcasing the structural beauty of Japanese architecture. More than half of the interior space is dedicated to bookshelves and reading tables, displaying a vast collection of literature, history, philosophy books, local chronicles, Japanese books, and used books. Japanese stationery and postcards are also sold, allowing the space to serve multiple roles as a reading room, bookstore, and cafe.

Hifumi Cafe's cuisine focuses on Japanese home-style flavors and classic Kissaten desserts. The menu is full of nostalgic sentiment; although the selection is small, every item is meticulously designed. The signature dish, "Black Curry Rice," boasts a deep color and rich flavor, with a slight spice that stimulates the appetite. The "Red Wine Braised Beef Rice" features tender, flavorful beef, offering a warm, homemade taste. Desserts include various Japanese-style pancakes. Beverages include coffee (pour-over/espresso) and a variety of teas (Japanese tea, Hojicha, Matcha, etc.), as well as seasonal specialty drinks, maintaining a refreshing style suitable for leisurely lingering. Savoring these dishes, steeped in historical warmth and surrounded by a literary ambiance, is an excellent cultural experience.

This is not just a place for relaxation; it frequently hosts arts and culture lectures and independent book exhibitions, serving as the perfect embodiment of Kaohsiung's slow living philosophy. When visiting Hamasen, be sure to slow down, step into Hifumi Cafe & Bookstore, and enjoy an afternoon tea moment gently surrounded by history.

『Hifumi Cafe & Bookstore』
Address: 2F, No. 4, Guyuan St., Gushan Dist., Kaohsiung City (Entrance via the small staircase in the alley)
Hours: Daily 10:30 - 18:30 (Please check the official FB for monthly closing dates)
Transportation:
MRT: Take the Kaohsiung Metro Orange Line to "Xiziwan Station" (O1), exit at Exit 2, and walk for about 3-5 minutes.
LRT: Take the Light Rail to "Hamasen Station" (C14) and walk for about 5 minutes.